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Valencia Lamb Nappa

The Vegetable Tanning Process

Vegetable tanned leather is produced using a traditional
and environmentally friendly tanning method that involves natural materials.
Here's a general overview of the process:

1. Preparing the hides: Raw hides, which have been
preserved through salting or chilling, are soaked in water to rehydrate and
remove any dirt or debris.

2. Liming: The hides are soaked in a lime solution to
help remove hair and flesh from the hide.

3. De-Liming and Bating: After liming, the hides are
treated to neutralize the lime and then subjected to enzymatic treatment to
further remove flesh and other unwanted materials.

4. Vegetable tanning: The hides are immersed in large
wooden drums or pits containing a solution made from vegetable tannins. Common
sources of vegetable tannins include tree barks like oak, chestnut, and
hemlock. The tannins penetrate the hide and react with collagen fibers, making
the leather supple and durable.

5. Colouring: Unlike chrome tanned leather, vegetable
tanned leather is not dyed during the tanning process. Instead, the leather
takes on a natural, light tan colour from the vegetable tannins.

6. Fat liquoring: Oils or other natural substances are
added to the leather to enhance its softness and flexibility.

7. Drying: The leather is slowly dried to avoid excessive
shrinkage or hardening.

8. Conditioning and finishing: The leather is
conditioned, softened, and sometimes hot plated or ironed to achieve the
desired texture and finish.

9. Quality control: Each batch of leather undergoes
quality checks to ensure it meets the required standards.

Vegetable tanned leather is appreciated for its
environmentally friendly nature, biodegradability, and ability to develop a
rich patina over time. It's commonly used in high-quality leather goods like
belts, saddles, wallets, and other artisanal products.

The Chrome Tanning Process

Chrome tanned leather is produced using a process called
chrome tanning, which is one of the most common methods for tanning leather.
Here's an overview of the steps involved:

1. Preparing the hides: Raw hides, which have been
preserved through salting or chilling, are cleaned and soaked in water to
remove any dirt or debris.

2. Bating: The hides are treated with enzymes to help
remove flesh, fat, and other unwanted materials.

3. Chrome tanning: The hides are immersed in a solution
containing chromium salts (usually chromium sulphate or chromium chloride). This
solution penetrates the hide and chemically binds with the collagen fibres,
stabilizing and preserving the leather.

4. Neutralization: After the tanning process, the leather
is rinsed to remove excess chemicals and adjust the pH level.

5. Dyeing (optional): If desired, the leather may be dyed
to achieve the desired colour.

6. Fat liquoring: Oils or emulsions are added to the
leather to enhance its softness, flexibility, and water resistance.

7. Drying: The leather is dried to a specific moisture
content.

8. Finishing: The leather is processed further to achieve
the desired texture, appearance, and characteristics. This may involve sanding,
buffing, and adding a protective finish.

9. Quality control: Each batch of leather undergoes
quality checks to ensure it meets the required standards.

The chrome tanning process is known for
producing leather that is durable, soft, and water-resistant, making it
suitable for various applications, including shoes, bags, and upholstery.